On the road with a quality traveler

Three QL ‘castles’ that took me by surprise. As a culinary critic and arts editor with a background at De Telegraaf, Lekker500 magazine and various lifestyle publications, it takes quite a bit to impress me. But that’s exactly what happened when I was introduced to the concept behind Quality Lodgings, the international collection of independent quality hotels. 

KASTEEL DE VANENBURG, THE NETHERLANDS 

My first visit as a Quality Traveller for this prestigious organisation led me to the Veluwe, where I discovered the stunning estate of Kasteel De Vanenburg in the quaint village of Putten. A revelation. That such hotels (with such kitchens!) even exist in the Netherlands... I was truly amazed. Carefully restored heritage paired with culinary excellence, all within reach for anyone seeking genuine hospitality. 

WEESHUIS GOUDA, THE NETHERLANDS 

Equally surprising was my visit to the historic heart of Gouda. Cruising along the canals, I suddenly found myself face to face with a 16th-century stepped gable facade, behind it lies Weeshuis Gouda. A hidden gem. Originally built as an orphanage, the building has served many purposes over time. Most recently, it was transformed by entrepreneurial Dutch visionaries with a sense of history and an eye for style into a stunning boutique hotel. 

"It takes quite a bit to impress me. But that’s exactly what happened when I was introduced to the concept behind Quality Lodgings.” - Ton de Zeeuw

KASTEEL KERCKEBOSCH, THE NETHERLANDS 

And then there was Kasteel Kerckebosch in Zeist, once the residence of a relative of Minister De Geer, now a proud member of the Quality Lodgings collection. Excellently renovated to meet the needs of today’s hotel and restaurant guests, it radiates historic grandeur and serves classically rooted modern gastronomy. I sampled halibut with fennel, zucchini and an oyster beurre blanc, alongside a traditional and tender tournedos Rossini. Divine. 

HOSPITALITY AND CULINARY CLASS 

Space, tranquillity, style, elegance and gastronomy define the essence of Kasteel De Vanenburg, a Quality Lodgings member located in Putten. The estate features 48 rooms and suites spread across the grounds, with a central castle garden terrace. It also houses event spaces for festive and business occasions, as well as a restaurant and brasserie. Dating back to the 17th century, the castle was originally built as an aristocratic country residence. Over time, the estate fell into disrepair, until the Baan family transformed it in the late 1990s into a luxurious Veluwe retreat where authentic hospitality and culinary finesse meet. General Manager and co-owner Bernhard Baan shares: “Our family came from the ICT world, not hospitality. Initially, we wanted to house our software division on the estate, hold conferences, and welcome guests. So we renovated the entire complex in its original style, including the gardens and outbuildings. But over the years, hospitality and gastronomy became central. Since 2010, the focus has shifted to events and restaurant visits. The IT business now resides modestly in the former gardener’s house.” Chef Richard Broersma, who trained in Switzerland, offers a French-classical cuisine with international accents. Signature dishes include hamachi with green curry mousse, avocado ice cream and Japanese mayonnaise, or monkfish with pumpkin, kumquat, lardo and a langoustine foam. All to be enjoyed in a refined dining room with a stone floor, crisp white tablecloths and a stained-glass ceiling adorned with butterflies. 

“That such hotels (with such kitchens!) even exist in the Netherlands... I was truly amazed.”

JEWEL OF THE UTRECHTSE HEUVELRUG 

Though originally built in Gothic style in 1911, Kasteel Kerckebosch was soon adorned by Jonkheer E. Lintelo de Geer (grandfather of actor-director Ursul de Geer) with Renaissance stepped gables, Louis XVI windows, Gothic flying buttresses, rose and pointed arch windows, massive doors from Utrecht Cathedral, and antique fireplaces. Today, more than a century later, the building’s eclectic design is part of its charm. It now serves as a magnificent hotel-restaurant with 30 authentic rooms, a bar, lounge, sunroom, garden and spacious terrace. About a decade ago, seasoned chef Hans van Triest and hospitality expert Ingmar Sloothaak took over the neglected property. With great care, they introduced new elements such as a marble-floored bar, a completely new roof, and the modern brasserie Bistoria (a blend of ‘bistro’ and ‘trattoria’). The hotel rooms also received a fresh update. Today, this reimagined yet architecturally grand. Kasteel De Vanenburg | Putten, the Netherlands restaurant is a beacon on the Utrechtse Heuvelrug, offering generous, flavourful and classically inspired contemporary cuisine. We tasted North Sea crab enhanced with citrus, sea salt and crème fraîche; a poached egg yolk with green asparagus and sea herbs; and paella made with white arborio rice enriched with lobster stock, served with green herbs, peas, rabbit, fried Dutch shrimp, sweet-sour pumpkin, squid, tataki and lobster topped with bouillabaisse foam. All paired with crisp pinot bianco from Alto Adige. The castle masters of Kerckebosch clearly know what they’re doing. 

A RESTORED MASTERPIECE 

The 17th-century gentlemen in the Governors’ Room at Weeshuis Gouda leave no doubt about their care for the orphaned children once entrusted to them. Their portrait presides over the breakfast room in this beautifully restored boutique hotel. Enjoy your morning coffee surrounded by vibrant art and design objects carefully curated by Sharon and Lennart van Gastel together with interior architect Judith van Mourik. Think armchairs, shaded lamps, pouffes, cosy cushions, floral arrangements and rugs, an entire exhibition of style and ambience. Across from the oak mantelpiece stand carved poplar wood figures of a boy and girl in traditional orphan attire. Weeshuis Gouda boasts several such restored and restyled spaces. There’s COCO, the elegant coffee and champagne bar that doubles as a lunch spot, with golden chairs and lamps shaped like nun’s wimples, honouring the sisters who once lived here. And LIZZ, the fine dining restaurant helmed by Michelin-starred chef Remco Kuijpers. The rooms and suites feature leaded windows, ceiling beams and oak trusses, each uniquely designed and full of the distinct personality that defines Quality Lodgings. The interiors are styled in feminine hues: lilac, pink and green. “Women shaped this building’s history for centuries,” says the team. “We wanted to honour that. We also drew inspiration from the refined Gouda earthenware of the last century. Its floral Art Nouveau motifs echo throughout the building—even in the wallpaper and carpeting.” Weeshuis Gouda is a feast for all the senses.